Daquan fabric

 Fabric material is used to make clothing. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabric can not only interpret.
Production in the formal social occasions wearing the clothing, should choose cotton, wool, pure silk, pure hemp products . to the four natural texture of fabric production of clothing, mostly of high rank. Sometimes, wearing clothing made of pure leather, are also allowed.
we will shape characteristics of different materials and fabrics in the clothing design using simple described below.
1. soft fabrics soft fabrics are generally thin, good drape, shape lines smooth, natural stretch clothing outline. soft fabrics including knitted fabric structure evacuation of soft fabrics and silk fabrics and thin yarn fabrics. soft, knitted fabrics are often used in linear fashion design concise style reflects the graceful curve of the body; silk, linen and other fabrics are more common in loose and pleated effect of the shape, the performance of the fluid lines of a sense of fabric.
2 . very cool very cool fabrics fabrics have clear lines a sense of volume, can form full of clothing outline. common are cotton, polyester cotton fabrics, corduroy, linen and a variety of thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics and so on, such material modeling accuracy can be used to highlight the design of clothing, such as suits, suit design.
3. shiny fabrics and shiny fabrics with smooth surface can reflect the light, a shiny feeling. Such fabrics include satin structure of the fabric. the most commonly used in evening dress or theatrical performance in services, produce a strong dazzling visual effects. shiny fabrics in the dress of the performers in the shape of a very wide degree of freedom, can have simple or a more exaggerated form design mode .
4. heavy fabrics thick Tinggua heavy fabrics, to produce a stable shape effects, including various types of thick woolen cloth and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of physical expansion, not too much use of pleating and stacking, the design of the A-and H-shape is most appropriate.
5. transparent fabrics transparent thin and transparent type of fabric texture, with elegant and mysterious artistic effect. including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics and so on, such as georgette, satin Article silk, chemical fiber, lace and so on. To express the transparency of fabric, often full line of natural, varied and round table H-shape design.
below, on the common characteristics of each fabric to make some brief .
1, cotton
is the general term for various types of cotton textiles. It is usually used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. It has the advantage of easy warm, soft close, moisture absorption, ventilation is very good. Its disadvantage is that easy to shrink, easy to fold, not crisp and beautiful appearance, in dress must always ironing.
2, linen
is hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal, abaca and other plant fiber made of a hemp fabric. are generally used to make casual wear, work wear, is also more common in the summer with its production. It has the advantage of high strength, moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, permeability very good. It's disadvantage is not very comfortable wearing, look more rough, blunt.
3, as raw silk, silk textiles
is made of a variety of silk fabrics collectively. and cotton, as it many varieties, different personality. It can be used to produce a variety of clothing, especially suitable for making women's clothing. its strength is thin, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, elegant, wearing comfortable. It's less prone to wrinkles is easy to suck the body, not strong enough, faded fast.
4, woolen
known as wool, it is to use various types of wool and cashmere woven into the fabric of the generic name . It is usually applied to the production of dresses, suits, coats and other formal, high-end clothing. Its advantage is wrinkle resistant, soft, elegant and crisp, flexible, warm and strong. Its disadvantages are washing more difficult, not suitable for production of summer.
5, is the result of tanning leather
made fur fabrics. It used to make more than fashion, winter clothes. they can be divided into two categories: leather, that is, to the hair after processed leather. Second, fur, that is, treated skin, hair, leather. It has the advantage of light and warm, elegant and poised. It's disadvantage is that expensive, storage, care, higher, and it is not universal. < br> 6, synthetic
is short for chemical fibers. It is the use made of polymer fiber as raw material for textiles. Usually it is divided into two main categories of artificial fibers and synthetic fibers. their common advantage is colorful , soft, drape crisp, smooth and comfortable. Their disadvantage is that wear resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, ventilation is poor, easily deformed by heat, prone to static electricity. Although it can be used to produce various types of clothing, but the overall level is not high, hard your humble.
7, blended with natural fibers
is in accordance with a certain proportion of chemical fiber, textile made of mixed fabric, used to make all kinds of clothing. its strengths It is not only absorbed the cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber of their respective advantages, but also as far as possible to avoid their own shortcomings, but relatively low in value, so popular.
This chapter describes these the nature of fabric categories, characteristics and identification methods and other knowledge.
identification of components of Section fabric fabric composition
simple identification method is burning. practice is drawn at the seams of clothing next strand contains the cloth warp and weft yarn, the use of fire to ignite, observe the state of flame, smell the burned yarn fabric odor and see the residue after combustion, in order to determine the durability of the label and clothing fabric components are marked match in order to identify the authenticity of material composition.
a cotton fiber and hemp fiber and hemp fiber cotton fiber
are just near the flame that is burning, burning rapidly, yellow flame, emitting blue smoke. both in the burning odor and ash after burning the difference is that the issue of paper burning smell of cotton, linen smell of burning ash; burn, a very small powder ashes of cotton, are black or gray, hemp is a small amount of white powder dust produced.
Second, the wool fibers wool and silk
smoke, fire, burning blisters, burning slowly, emitting a smell of burning hair, coke, ashes after burning mostly shiny black spherical particles, finger pressure is broken. shrunk silk tangled in a fire, burning slowly, accompanied by hiss, emitting a burning smell fever hair, dark brown after burning to form small spherical ashes, hand-twist that is broken.
three, nylon and generic polyamide fiber nylon polyester
, crouched near the flame that quickly melt into a white gel, melted in the flame burning dripping and blistering, burning without the flame, leave the fire difficult to burn, emitting a celery flavor, cooling light brown melt is not easy after crush. Polyester generic polyester fiber, easy to ignite, the flame that is melting in recent reduction, black smoke when burned side edge melting, yellow flame, and a sweet odor, burning after the ashes are dark brown lumps with finger crush.
IV, acrylic and polypropylene
generic acrylic fiber, reduced melting softening near the fire, black smoke after the fire, the flame is white, close to the fire quickly burned, emitting a burning meat bitter smell of burning ashes after the irregular black lumps, hand twist fragile. PP generic fiber, that close to the flame melting shrinkage, flammable, slow burning and black smoke from the fire, the flame yellow top, blue bottom, distribution of the oil taste, burning to ashes after the round light brown particles of hard, hand twist breakable.
five generic PVA polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl chloride fiber
polyvinyl formal fibers, not ignite, melt shrinkage near flame, burning the top of a little flame, to be melted into the gel fibers are larger flames, thick smoke and distributing hard fragrant odor, burning after the small black bead-like particles remaining, available fingers crushed. polyvinyl chloride fiber generic polyvinyl chloride fiber, hard burns from the fire that is extinguished, the flame was yellow, the bottom green white smoke, distribute irritating pungent spicy sour, burned to ashes as a dark brown irregular lumps, easily crush fingers.
six spandex with Teflon
scientific name of polyurethane spandex fiber, near the fire burning edge melting, burning blue flame, leave the fire burning to melt, emit a special pungent odor, burning after the soft fluffy black and gray ashes. generic Poly Teflon PTFE fiber, ISO organization called fluorite fiber, melt only near the flame, difficult ignition, do not burn, the flame was blue-green edge of carbon, melting and decomposition of toxic gases, molten material is hard and round black beads. Teflon fibers in the textile industry, sewing thread used in the manufacture of high performance.
seven, viscose fiber and copper ammonium rayon fibers
flammable, burning fast, yellow flame, emitting odor of burning paper, ashes after burning less , was smooth and fine twisted ribbon light gray or gray powder. cuprammonium common name tiger kapok fiber, near the flame that is burning, burning speed, the flame yellow, sour ester distribution, very little ash after burning, only a small amount of gray and black ash. Identification of pure wool fabric
Section
pure wool fabrics, natural color and soft, warm effect, is to produce high-grade fabric of choice for suits and coats. but now more and more imitation wool, with the textile technology improve the customer has reached the most difficult to identify the level, but the color, warmth, feel, etc. is far less than pure wool fabrics. Here are some identification method fabric pure wool for clothing and fabrics in the selection of your reference .
one hand touch feeling. pure wool fabric is usually feel silky, smooth hair hairy fabrics feel silky touch, against hair tingling. and blended or pure chemical fiber products, and some less soft, and some are too soft and loose , and a sticky feeling.
Second, look at color. pure wool fabric soft natural color and bright without the old sense. In contrast, blended or pure synthetic fabric, or shiny dark, or a sense of flash and color .
Third, look at flexibility. hand to defend the tight thing, and then immediately let go, to see the fabric flexibility. pure wool fabric rebound rate, can be quickly restored the status quo, and blended or synthetic product, poor crease resistance Most left obvious traces of folds, or the slow recovery.
IV Identification of combustion. take a bunch of yarn, with fire, wool fibers smell like burning hair, chemical fiber fabrics like burning plastic smell. combustion The more hard particles after chemical components that more.
five single identification. all animals under the microscope to see the hair there is a scale, if the fabric is so hairy mammoth on the map as long as the same as taking a few rub will move up or down (in order to master the skills to do a hair test can acquire), if an ordinary fabric, taking a yarn, cut 2 cm split into two fibers on the palm of the hand one by one rub in the next four or five to see if they will not move.
Section wool textile raw materials
present, wool fabric on the market used animal hair fibers, there are basically sheep wool, goat hair, camel wool and rabbit hair several.
one daily dosage of wool
largest sweaters, woolen cloth, blankets and other dense mainly sheep with the sheep. in the weaving industry, the largest amount of sheep wool, so , the higher the count, the better the quality, the higher series, the worse the quality.
wool has been admiration for the people, name. The wool fiber thin and long, woolly sheep is the most high-quality varieties. Others, such as New Zealand, South America, Europe, Southern Alps and others have raised, and reputation in the world.
Shenandoah hair also common species. Shenandoah formerly known as Shetland wool hair, as produced in Shetland, Scotland got its name. As Shenandoah hair to hair as the main and more coarse mixture of wool and the opposite direction, this natural the thickness of the mixture, forming a unique wool fabric Shenandoah full and fluffy and soft but not delicate, shiny and elastic characteristics of good, with the rough style. However, the Shenandoah gross output less demand, the market's The so-called Shenandoah hair style products, some of the Sheep wool, lamb wool in fact, the feel thicker, and more use made of wool.
Second, mountain goat wool
who is clipping the coarse goat hair and dead hair. General Mountain wool body hair is very short, not spinning, can only be made coarse brush, brush and the like, only mohair exception. mohair or mohair, produced in the Angolan province of Turkey, North America and South Asia and other places, is a high quality wool fiber surface smooth, rarely curly, long and thick, soft and strong with a silk-like luster, excellent elasticity, wear resistance and high strength, is a system of jacquard woven blankets, plush, smooth hair coat it, artificial fur fabric and other senior the ideal raw material. rough hand-woven mohair sweater knitting, wrapped in soft silky fibers, such as Wuban constitute noble, active, and rough clothing style, very popular. defender of the Northwest mohair goat classes are also . But in the market, it was the fluffy style of acrylic bulk yarn called
alpaca alpaca (ALPACA), also known as as the high quality garment materials. camel wool on the market today, most of the products in Eastern Europe.
four
rabbit fur with light, thin, soft, warm and strong, the characteristics of cheaper by the people favorite. It is composed of the valuables of the villi and coarse, mainly ordinary rabbit rabbits and Angola, and the latter quality is superior. The difference is that hair and wool fibers slender, smooth surface, in particular, easily identifiable. the rabbit low intensity and difficult to separate the spinning, so much blended with wool or other fibers, manufacture knitwear and women into it, coat it and other apparel fabrics.
wool
concept and identity in the market, people can often see wool products are wool How many state standards are clearly defined. so that we understand. wool product is not 100% wool, pure wool products marked, it is already required to join the range of non-wool fibers, and thus should be less than 100% wool prices low.
short, to the booming market to buy desirable wool textiles, apart from the use of look, touch, ask, comparison of methods to identify, but can be analyzed on a price. Of course, the safest or to increase knowledge about the product.
recognition of cashmere, alpaca, mohair
one
cashmere cashmere goats from the bottom of fine hair, goat grows in the alpine grassland, for example, China's Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, Liaoning and other places. China is the world's largest producer of cashmere, cashmere yield of total world output 1 / 2, which went for the top grade of cashmere in Inner Mongolia. cashmere fiber is characterized by a thin, soft . The fabric feels soft, smooth waxy, soft gloss, more than the same thickness of the wool fabric is much lighter weight, and most of suede style. In general, more light from white cashmere cashmere coat, good quality; and Most of the dark or green velvet from Zirong, less quality.
II
alpaca from alpaca called ;) animals, the animals mainly grown in the Peruvian Andes. Andes, 4,500 meters above sea level, a great temperature difference between day and night, night -20 ~ -18 ��, and the day 15 ~ 18 ��, the strong solar radiation, atmospheric thin, cold the wind blows. in such a harsh environment for those living in the alpaca, the hair, of course, can withstand extreme temperature changes. alpaca wool not only moisture, but also effective against solar radiation, alpaca fiber contains microscopic visualization of the pulp cavity, so its thermal performance is better than wool, cashmere and mohair.
addition, alpaca fiber has more than 17 natural colors: from white to black, and a series of different shades of brown, gray, is a special animal Natural fibers, most colorful fiber. we saw in the market, alpaca fiber is longer, beautiful color; often say > Third,
mohair mohair is mohair is mainly produced in South Africa, which is characterized by coarse fiber, curled little luster. mohair fabric feels very smooth, shiny surface it enough. mohair and alpaca fabrics along as much as short hair style.
Section IV describes
silk fabrics silk silk and it normally two types of silk fabric, silk fabric, both with the tag, then how do identify the code number on the label ? these figures a total of five. The first number represents the raw materials used in goods; the second number represents the product of the fabric, followed by the number of commodities. In this figure before, but also with an uppercase letter on behalf of the origin of goods from the number of silk products, you can identify origin of raw materials and products.
raw silk code: , mulberry silk, silk; filament woven, or filament interwoven with short Siwei; Guangdong, H Zhejiang, J Jiangxi, K is of Jiangsu, M Fujian, N Guangxi, Q Shaanxi, S for Shanghai, T Tianjin, V Henan, W Anhui, X for Hunan.
Identification of V Leather
Leather Therefore, the leather is both a term for all natural leather, the commodity market on a vague identity.
natural leather according to sub-types are pig leather, cow leather, sheep leather, horse leather, leather and kangaroo leather donkey, A small number of fish leather, leather, reptiles, amphibians, leather, ostrich leather. which was divided into cattle leather, cow leather, buffalo leather, Yak leather and leather Pianniu; sheep and goat leather sheep leather into leather . according to their level of points, there are the first layer of leather and split leather, in which the first layer of leather with full grain leather and leather shaving; have split leather cow split leather pig split leather and so on. in the main types of leather , cattle and sheep leather, leather, thin flat surface, hair eyes small, dense internal structure of tight, leather body and playing with sexy plump better physical performance. Therefore, the superior cattle and sheep leather generally used as a high-end leather products The leather, the price is higher in the bulk of the leather of a kind.
leather in many varieties, full grain leather should top the list, because it is less by a high grade raw material for disabled workers and Piga Cheng, well-preserved natural leather surface state, the coating is thin, can show a pattern of animal skins natural beauty. It is not only wear, but also has good permeability.
shaved leather, is the use of buffing machine leather coating surface after light grinding, then pressed on and made the appropriate pattern. is actually a natural with a disability or rough leather surface was state of thick coating layers, wear resistance and air permeability less than the full grain leather.
split leather, is a thick skin with a film derived from the machine split, the first layer used for full grain leather or Corrected leather, floor after finishing or film made of split leather and other processes, its fastness, wear resistance is poor, the cheapest kind of a leather.
Here we re-introduce some commonly used method:
one hand: the hand-to-leather surface, if smooth, soft, plump, flexible feel that leather; and general man-made synthetic leather face astringent, rigid, soft and poor.
Second, watch: To observe the real leather face a clearer pores, pattern, yellow leather have a more symmetrical pores, yak skin has coarse pores and sparse, with scaly pores goat, pig skin has coarse pores triangle, The leather, although imitation of the pores, but not clear. to introduce the following pig leather, horse leather, cow leather, sheep leather characteristics and identification methods: cow leather surface thin, high strength, the most suitable for making shoes; sheep leather light , thin and soft fabric is ideal for leather clothing; water vapor permeability of leather pig performance, more suitable for making underwear and children's products; horse leather fiber structure more closely, the intensity is high, for the production of leather pants and boots better. In general, the thickness of the leather surface of the pores, is the distinction between density and distribution of cattle leather, pig leather, horse leather and sheep leather the main basis.
pig leather: leather surface of the pores are round and thick than obliquely within the stretching leather. pores arranged in a group of three, leather surface showing the pattern of many small triangles.
cow leather: leather of cattle and buffalo leather are called cow leather, but they also have some differences. Huang cow leather surface of the pores were round, leather stretching more direct manner, the pores close and uniform, arranged in irregular, like the stars. buffalo than cattle leather leather surface of coarse pores, pore over the number of rare cattle leather, leathery more relaxed, full and detailed as cattle leather. horse leather: leather surface of the oval-shaped pores, the pores slightly larger than cattle leather, arranged in a regular.
sheep leather: leather grain oblate pores, the pores clear composed of a group of a few, arranged in scaly.
three odor: all real leather has the smell of leather; and leather are strong plastic with one irritating odor.
four, lit: from real leather and leather on the back tore off one o'clock fiber, lit, who issued a pungent odor, formed lump is leather; any given hair smell, does not bear a hard nut to crack is the dermis.
leather logo leather logo
In the State Administration for Industry registered certification mark, where the features a leather logo leather products have three characteristics: 1, the product is made with quality leather; 2, the product is working well in the high-end products; 3 consumers to buy features a leather logo leather products enjoy a good after-sales service. is not made of genuine leather products will not be able features a leather logo, like features a leather logo, China Leather Industry Association and subject to rigorous review, approval, side can Peigua. China Leather Industry Association every year the quality of its testing to ensure product quality.
leather logo is a registered trademark of the whole sheep, a pair of horns, a skin-shaped pattern consisting of artistic distortion . the overall pattern was round drum, a GLP three letters of the central pattern is the abbreviation of leather products, the main color is white with black patterns, only three letters in red. pictorial meaning: cattle, sheep and pigs are leather products The three main natural leather raw material, was circular drum patterns, leather industry on the one hand a symbol of the main processing equipment drum, the other a symbol of the leather industry rolling forward.
VI suit fabric knowledge
a pure chemical fiber fabrics
1, pure polyester tweed. fine smooth surface clean, clear bar, feel pretty, cool, easy to wash and quick drying, easy to wear long after the fluff. men and women to do a Spring and Autumn.
2, Viscose Tweed (Express bus). 50 ~ 65% polyester, 50 ~ 35% viscose, wool feeling strong, feeling full thick, good flexibility, low cost. men and women to do a Spring and Autumn clothing.
3, knitted polyester. soft, flexible, and the appearance of plump, crisp, easy to wash and dry quickly. men and women to do a Spring and Autumn clothing.
4, woolen fabrics commonly known as Therefore, the merits of the poor fabric is also great.
5, coat it. a flat thick, velvet, smooth hair, emboss and other varieties. texture and rich, warm and strong. importing wool and with a secondary domestic wool spinning quality is better, it planing, smooth feel, good elasticity. homemade three, four the feel of wool spinning and stiff, it faces a grab hair. men and women to do a length of coat.
6, wheat Golden. made of imported wool or a wool, mixed with a small amount of worsted wool into a short. it fullness, fine clean smooth body bone close and very real, flexible, can not ball, do not open at the end. should be men and women clothing and women's coats.
7, navy. with one or two short of domestic wool worsted wool and a small amount into. it fine the whole surface of soft, flexible feel quite real. Some products are raising phenomenon. use with Melton.
8, uniforms yet. with three or four domestic worsted wool with a minor back hair, short wool into. it planing, feel slightly rough, grab hair, wearing long was exposed after the end of But fastness wear. should be uniform.
9, flannel. what gray uniform surface blending, suede slightly exposed pattern, feel full, fine clean smooth, elegant appearance. men and women to do a Spring and Autumn clothing.
10, tweed. with a 1-3 mixed with some sticky domestic wool fiber is made. it faces thick, durable fastness, color range. men and women spring to do a shirt and high-end dual-use children.
II Mixed textiles
1, polyester wool tweed. which 55% polyester, 45% wool, thick texture, feel full, high strength, good fastness, crisp, wrinkle resistance. to do a fall and winter clothing.
2 , cool it. of which 55% polyester, 45% wool, thin material, but the fastness durable, with a cool, slippery, pretty, wrinkle, shrink-proof, easy to wash and quick-drying and so on. to do a spring and summer clothing, not so winter clothing.
3, polyester wool tweed stick. Polyester 40%, wool 30% viscose 30%, then fine clean surface, strong sense of wool, striped clear, crisp, good fastness, low cost economic reality
three, all wool
1, gabardine. yarn fine, then almost the entire surface smooth, feel smooth, rich and flexible, full straight lines. should sew suits, Zhongshan Fu, Ladie's Wear . drawback is the site of frequent friction knee, hip, after easily from the light.
2, serge. lines wide, flat surface than gabardine, feel soft, flexible, and less than gabardine thick, color fastness, use the same gabardine. < br> 3, tweed. tweed by weight can be divided into thin (300 grams / m) and in the thick tweed (300 to 400 g / m). what surface is smooth, the color symmetry, flexibility, a clear pattern of change range . men and women to do a variety of coat, suit coat.
4, Han taste it. luster natural soft, then planing the surface with short fine plush, soft wool feel. to do a spring and dual-use shirt and suit.
5 valitin. fine yarn, raw material is good, but the density of thin, light and smooth surface does. feel very smooth, good flexibility, bright color wash. wish for summer clothes and winter jacket material
6, send the Legislative Division . luster soft, supple, flexible, and feel smooth, thin, cool, less than valitin fastness. The most suitable for all kinds of men and women in summer clothes.
7, female clothing it. yarn smaller, structure is more loose, feel soft and flexible, color and more color is gorgeous. often used as a dual-shirt and jacket women face the Spring and Autumn.
8, satin it. density, feel heavy, soft, smooth, shiny and bright, resilient . to do a coat, Zhongshan Fu.
VII knowledge
a wool, wool is generally divided into categories
knitting yarn knitting wool (the wool) and the knitting yarn (referred to as knitting wool) two to wool the number of shares, differentiate between special numbers and use as a standard.
knitting: more than three strands Chunghwa Express Corp (including the three evil), but the number of shares in six or more special (including six) are for the wool.
knitted cashmere : Chunghwa Express Corp II shares in the six joint stock tex or less, or finished as a single unit, designed for the knitwear processing with three, and both are for knitting wool.
II products of knitting wool knitting yarn and No.
knitted woolen and woolen yarn is divided into two categories, the Arabic numerals, buy, wool and trademarks on the description of the first Arabic numerals: (4 classes)
0 - worsted wool (with often omitted)
1 - woolen yarn
2 - worsted knitting yarn (This code sometimes do not write)
3 - woolen knitting yarn
second digits, on behalf of knitting wool Item number or types of materials chosen, a total of 10 categories, the code is:
0 - cashmere Huo cashmere blended with other fibers.
1 - heterogeneous Mao (also known as the country hair, including large part of the domestic wool, wool fibers and the length of their quite different)
2 - homogeneous hair (also known as outer hair, including the import of wool and a small number of domestic wool, the wool fiber length difference in the thickness and smaller)
3 - homogeneous wool and viscose fibers
4 - homogeneous and heterogeneous wool wool
5 - Heterogeneity wool and viscose fibers
6 - wool and synthetic homogeneous fibers
7 - Heterogeneous wool and synthetic blend
8 - pure chemical fiber and blended with each other
9 - other raw materials.
listed above, code-named - Cashmere Huo cashmere and other fibers (except nylon) blend;
1 - white cashmere
2 - Castle cashmere
3 - purple cashmere
4 - cashmere and nylon blend
5 - Short-haired
6 - rabbit (lamb wool)
7 - camel
8 - yak
9 - Other